All rivers have humble beginnings, and that includes the Danube, Europe’s second largest river. It starts in Germany’s Black Forest and flows through ten countries before reaching the Black Sea in Romania. Plan a Danube road trip that follows the river from the medieval German city of Ulm to Vienna -- with a detour to historic Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic.

The crooked house in Ulm

Day 1 Depart: Ulm  O/night: Regensburg   Approx: 200 kms
The journey begins in Ulm, home to the tallest church in the world. Ulm Minster's imposing Gothic steeple towers 161 metres over the former Imperial City. Its height is not the only thing to get the church into the record books: it also took more than five centuries to complete -- construction began in 1377, though it was not until 1890 that the spire was finally added.

Ulm Minster is often called a cathedral because of its size, but as it has never been the seat of a bishop, it remains just a church –  without a doubt one of the most impressive churches you are likely to come across. For the more energetic visitor the climb to top (it’s only 768 steps) offers excellent views of the city and its surrounds –and in clear weather you’ll catch sight of the Alps on the horizon.

Ulm sits at the point where two other rivers, the Blau and the Iller, join the Danube. Head for the painstakingly restored Fischerviertel (Fishermen's Quarter), a scenic old part of Ulm with half-timbered houses, cobblestoned alleys and little footbridges that cross the River Blau.

The Schiefes Haus (crooked house), a picturesque, timber framed medieval relic with wide, sloping beams extending out over the river, is one of the main attractions in the Fishermen's Quarter: its sagging shape once earned it a mention in The Guinness Book of Records. Top tip: it was completely renovated a few years ago, and has since become a boutique hotel  -- a memorable place to stay while in Ulm.

Getting to Ulm is very easy: it sits at the crossroads of the A8 motorway, which links Stuttgart (about an hour’s drive) with Munich (ninety minutes or so); and the A7 (one of the motorways connecting northern and southern Europe).

From Ulm to Regensburg take the more scenic ‘B’ roads, or Bundesstrassen as they are called in German. They are marked by rectangular yellow signs with black numerals: the autobahns use white-on-blue markers.

If you have been exploring the picture postard towns dotted along the popular Romantische Strasse you might want to pick up the Danube itinerary in Donauworth, which sits on a bend in the river a little over 80 kilometres north-east of Ulm.

On the other hand, if you wanted to start off your trip at the very source of the Danube, you would need to travel a couple of hours south-east of Ulm to Furtwangen in the Black Forest, once a major producer of musical clocks: they have been making cuckoo clocks in Furtwangen since the mid 1700s, though it’s a dying trade these days. You’ll find one of the world's greatest collections of Black Forest clocks at the Deutsche Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum) in Furtwangen.

It’s the architecture and rich history rather than the town’s particular attractions that makes Donauworth worth visiting. The town was at the centre of things way back in the early 1600s, when Germany became divided into hostile Lutheran and Catholic military alliances, which resulted in the Thirty Years' War, one of the most destructive conflicts in European history.

Donauworth

Donauworth was badly damaged by aerial bombing raids in the closing stages of World War Two, but was later carefully restored. Make your way through the Riederstor, the oldest surviving gate, and head for the impressive gabled houses on Reichsstrasse in the heart of the old town. The name Reichsstrasse refers to Donauworth's former status as a free imperial city on the old trade route between Nurnberg and Augsburg, the two richest and most influential cities in the Holy Roman Empire: today it is a bustling shopping street.

If you are passing through Donauworth at lunchtime, check out the typical local cuisine at the Goldener Hirsch on Reichstrasse: perhaps order a fladlesuppe (a beef broth with vegetables strips of pancake) followed by a tasty Bavarian schweinebraten mit kartoffelknodeln (roast pork with potato dumplings).

Travelling eastwards from Donauworth to Ingolstadt you pass through another achitectural gem called Neuburg an der Donau. Here again you enter the the old part of the town through a gate in the medieval walls. It leads to a fascinating world of Renaissance and Baroque patrician houses, aristocratic mansions and churches. The castle dates back to the early 1500s and was built by a member of the former Bavarian royal family called Otto Henry, who went by the rather grand title of Count Palatine of Palatinate-Neuburg.

Ingolstadt is about half-an-hour’s drive further on. Sandwiched between the better-known Ulm and Regensburg, it is sometimes overlooked by visitors to the area. The town is the headquarters of Audi, the German automobile manufacturer, but there is more to it than that. Like most other towns in the region, Ingolstadt boasts some fine old architecture, much of it dating back to the 1500s: the old town actually dates from the early ninth century.

Ingolstadt has a very special church, Maria de Victoria, often called the Asam Church. This baroque jewel was built in the mid-1700s, and its interior was created by the Brothers Asam:  Cosmas Damian and Egid Quirin, two of the most important artists, sculptors and architects of the period. The fresco on the flat ceiling is the masterpiece of Cosmas Damian and is known for its optical illusions: the figures depicted in the fresco seem to follow you as you walk around the nave.

Ingolstadt

The Audi Museum is a ‘must’ for motoring ethusiasts. It houses a wide range of vehicles, including rally cars and motorcycles, that go back to the the beginning of the last century.

Military enthusiasts will want to stop by at the Neues Schloss (New Castle), now home to the Bavarian Army Museum, said to be one of the best military history museums in Europe. Not far away is the Bavarian Police Museum, where the exhibitions illustrate police training in the Third Reich (the Hitler period) and border security during the East-West Cold War.

Elsewhere in Ingolstadt at the Alte Anatomie (Old Anatomy) you’ll find a unique collection of medical and surgical exhibits from various continents and periods at the German Museum of Medical History. It was once the medical faculty of the state university, and sits in a delightful garden full of medicinal plants.

A little literary trivia: in Mary Shelley’s famous horror novel Frankenstein, it was in Ingolstadt that a university student named Victor Frankenstein became obsessed with creating a monster.

Travelling on to Regensburg you come to Neustadt an der Donau, situated in an area known for its hops (which find their way into the region’s famous beers). Neustadt boasts a cluster of more than twenty villages, all unique, and mostly historic: one of them is a hot springs spa village called Bad Gogging (where some may be tempted to spend the night and enjoy the steam and mud baths).

Bad Gogging's thermal origins date back to the Roman era, when Emperor Trajan built the first and largest sulphur water spa complex beyond the Alps. Today, it is hotels such as the five-star Monarch Hotel (a large conference-style hotel) and the Marc Auriel Spa and Golf Resort that continue the Bad Gogging tradition.

It’s about a 45-minute drive from Bad Gogging to Regensburg, which sits at the northernmost bend in the Danube.

Accommodation options: Hotel Muenchner Hof, Castle Hotel Regensburg, Grand Hotel Orphee

Day 2 Depart: Regensburg   O/night: Cesky Krumlov.  Approx: 245 kms
Regensburg is the oldest city on the Danube. Spend the morning exploring its history before driving on to Passau and across the Czech border to Cesky Kumlov. It’s about a two-hour drive from Regensburg to Passau, and another couple of hours or so to Cesky Krumlov.

Regensburg

Regensburg was the first capital of Bavaria, and home of a long list of kings, dukes and bishops. It was also an imperial free city for six centuries. One of the few cities in Germany largely undamaged during World War Two, Regensburg boasts the largest preserved medieval city centre in the country: it’s a UN World Heritage site.

The two most popular attractions are the Dom St Peter, one of Bavaria's grandest Gothic cathedrals; and the Steinerne Brucke, (stone bridge), dating back to the mid-1100s: for several centuries it was the only solid crossing along the entire Danube. An artificial canal now allows larger rivercraft to bypass its low arches.

St. Emmeram's Abbey, now known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis, a huge castle owned by the powerful Thurn and Taxis family, is another ‘must’. Franz von Taxis was given the right to carry government and private mail throughout the Holy Roman Empire and Spain in the late 1400s – Europe’s first public mail service. It remained a dynastic monopoly until the early 19th century.

The descendants of Franz von Taxis were given St Emmeram Abbey in recognition of the family’s services, and it was converted into a family residence. It soon became one of the most modern European palaces of its time in Europe, featuring such ‘luxuries’ as flushing toilets, central heating and electricity. Tours of the castle include a look into the Basilica St Emmeram. Recommended.

Schloss Thurn und Taxis

Altes Rathaus (the old town hall) is another Regensburg attraction. Tours include the breathtakingly ornate Reichssaal (Imperial Hall) and, by contrast, a somewhat scary torture chamber in the basement -- walk into the old holding cell and look down to the dungeon before entering the ‘interrogation’ room with all its frightening ‘tools of the trade’.

Regensburg’s old city centre is reasonably compact and mostly pedestrianised, so it is best explored on foot: driving into the city centre can be difficult, but it's no problem anywhere else. There is an Altstadtbus, (old town bus) that travels around the medieval city centre. Boat trips are also available along the Danube to explore nearby tourist attractions.

A foodie tip: If you decide to have lunch in Regensburg, you might want to head for the Hacker-Pschorr Wirtshaus, a beer garden set in the old Augustinian monastery. Try one of the specialties – the pfefferhaxel, grilled knuckle of suckling pig.

The drive to Passau takes you past Straubing one of the main gateways to the Bavarian Forest National Park, the first national park in Germany, established in 1970. Straubing was once one of the capitals of Old Bavaria, the area south of the Danube.

The Baroque city of Passau is often called the Dreiflussestadt (city of three rivers), because the Danube is joined at Passau by the Inn from the south, which runs from an area close to the Swiss ski resort of St Moritz; and the Ilz from the north, which starts in the Bavarian Forest close to the Czech border. The town is also a major port for Danube river cruises.

The best view of Passau is from the Veste Oberhaus, a medieval Episcopal castle towering over the town and the Danube. It was founded in 1219 and, for most of its time, served as the stronghold of the Bishop of Passau. The castle is home to an interesting regional history museum (open from mid-March to mid-November). You can park your car below and take the shuttle bus up to the castle.

Passau

Dom Sant Stephan, the town’s cathedral, is a masterpiece of Italian Baroque, and is one of the town’s biggest attractions – its giant organ is said to be the largest in the world. Thirty-minute concerts are given at noon from May to October.

From Passau, leave the Danube trail and head northeast through the Bavarian Forest, taking the road that leads to Philippsreut on the border with the Czech Republic. It was once a Cold War frontier, but there are no border formalities these days as the Czech Republic is a member of the EU’s Schengen area, an agreement that allows you to transit from one Schengen member country to another without border controls.

Along the way you pass through Waldkirchen, an important town on what was known as the Goldener Steig (Golden Path) back in the 13th century, a salt-trading route between Bavaria and Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic). Attractions in Waldkirchen include the Schratzlgaenge, a hidden labyrinth running under the town and the colourful carved wooden figures dotted along the streets of the old town. If you are travelling with children, you might want to spend some time at the Karoli Water Park near Waldkirchen, the largest and most modern bathing facility in the Bavarian Forest.

Before reaching Philippsreut, take a slight detour to pass through Jandelsbrunn. It has fishing, more than fifty hiking trails, an eighteen-hole golf course, and a lake with water so pure you can drink it: a very popular destination for family holidays. Grainet is also located just before the border at Philippsreut, a glass-producing town since the 15th century. The local glass-making factory offers fascinating tours where you get the chance to try a little glass-blowing for yourself.

Once across the border you come to Strazny, from where another fifteen-minute drive brings you to Lenora, situated on the confluence of the Rasnice and Vltava rivers at the foot of Boubín mountain. Like its nearby Bavarian neighbours, Lenora is well-known for its glass-making. Check out its glass museum before continuing to Volary, which has a tragic connection to World War Two.

The Holocaust cemetery in Volary

When the American forces entered Volary in May, 1945, in the last days of the war, they came across a barracks housing more than a hundred starving women, many of them dying: they were all that remained of a group of women who had been made to make a 700 kilometre death march from concentration camps in Poland. A few days later the Americans found the mass grave of more women who had died of disease or had been shot by Nazi camp guards. At the cemetery in Volary you will find a memorial along with 96 graves of the reburied victims. There is also a memorial to an American army private killed in Volary: the last known soldier to die in Europe during World War Two.

From Volary, continue on to Zbytiny, then follow the road to Ktis where you take Route 166 south to Cesky Krumlov.

Accommodation options: Hotel Grand, Hotel Old Inn, Hotel Bellevue

Day 3 Depart: Cesky Kumlov   O/night: Linz   Approx: 80 kms
The historical town centre of Cesky Krumlov is a car-free zone so spend the day discovering the picturesque town by foot. Stroll around the pretty cobblestoned old town and head for the castle complex, the majestic centrepiece of Cesky Krumlov.

Here’s a tip. The best time to visit Cesky Krumlov is early spring (April and early May) and late autumn (end of September to October): before the main tourist season begins. All the attractions are open and you can enjoy a relaxed atmosphere without the crowds that arrive from late May till early September.

The massive castle complex towering over the more than three hundred architectural gems in the old town from the top of  a rocky promontory on the Vlatava river is the main attraction of Cesky Krumlov. The castle area is one of the largest in central Europe and consists of forty buildings and palaces, as well as gardens, courtyards and a moat (complete with resident bears). Entry to the castle complex is free, though there are entry fees for various parts of the castle, such as the museum and tower (both recommended) Guided tours are available.

One of the fascinating highlights of the castle is its well-preserved Baroque Theatre, which dates back to the 1400s. In the 18th century decorative wall and ceiling murals were added and the theatre was equipped with unique machinery for changing scenes and making sound effects.

The castle tower has a gallery of wall murals dating back to the late 16th century and four centuries-old bells -- but it is the excellent view of the old town, the Vltava River and the Blansko and Sumava forests on the horizon that attracts most visitors to the tower.

Cesky Krumlov seen from the castle

If you decide to spend an extra day, the Cesky Krumlov Card will come in handy: it gives access to three museums, the castle tower, and an internationally renowned gallery. The museums included on the discount card are the Regional Museum, with its permanent collection of Bohemian antiques and archaeological finds from the region; the Seidel Photographic Studio Museum, a ‘must’ with  photography enthusiasts as it houses a wealth of unique period images, post-cards and glass-plate negatives, as well as well-preserved old photographic equipment; and the Egon Schiele Art Centrum, which opened in the former town brewery in 1993 and has since staged a permanent exhibition of the renowned Austrian painter’s works as well as impressive annual displays of artists such as Picasso, Dalí and Gustav Klimt -- stop by the art centre’s café and enjoy a povidla, a local apple pastry and coffee.

The Cesky Krumlov Card saves visitors 50 per cent off the regular admission (families travelling together save 60 per cent) The card can be bought at all the attractions on the card as well as the Infocentrum on Namestí Svornosti, the town square.

You might be tempted embark on an adventure on the Vlatava -- canoe and kayak rental is not expensive. For a real adrenaline rush, check out the white-water rafting on the upper part of the river and the region near the Lipno dam on the outskirts of the town.

The tradition of beer brewing in Cesky Krumlov dates right back to the origins of the town, so beer lovers will want to stop by for a tour of the Pivovar Eggenberg, or Eggenberg brewery, before leaving town. No booking is necessary for individuals and tours are available every day from 11.00 at the main gate to the brewery.

The tour includes a short history of the town´s history (in which beer making has played an important role), a visit to the brewing house with its old copper tanks, the original fermentation and lager cellar and the bottle filling room. The tour ends with beer tasting in the former ice house: Eggenberg brews seven varieties of beer and visitors can choose between dark, light, and yeast. (If you are driving on after this tour, make sure you have a dedicated driver).

If you are looking for a ‘special’ reason to visit Cesky Krumlov, consider the Five Petalled Rose Celebrations, a festival in mid-June that takes the town back to the Renaissance days:  three days of concerts, dances, arts and crafts, period costume processions, jugglers and much more. Book accommodation in advance, as this is a very popular event.

Leaving Cesky Krumlov, the road trip to Linz takes you through forest settings and a string of small towns and villages: it takes a bit more than an hour in good traffic conditions. Once again, there are no border controls as you pass from the Czech Republic into Austria.

Linz is the provincial capital of Upper Austria and the biggest port on the Danube, which by the time it reaches Linz, becomes much mightier with the infusion of the Isar, Inn, Salzach, and Traun rivers. If you did not make the detour to Cesky Krumlov and drove from Passau, Linz would be your gateway to Austria.

Accommodations options: Hotel am Domplatz, Park Inn by Radisson, Hotel Wolfinger

Day 4 Depart: Linz  Arrive Vienna   Approx: 210 kms
Linz does not have the chocolate-box appeal of many Austrian towns and villages in the region. It was here that Austria's first railroad terminated, and it became an industrial and manufacturing centre with steel factories and blast furnaces. Its industrial capacity was rapidly expanded after Hitler seized Austria in 1938, and the Nazis later established chemical plants in the city – which made it a frequent target of Allied bombing. It took years to repair the destruction that rained upon the city.

Linz

Linz appeals to visitors interested in modern art and new technology, with attractions such as Lentos Art Museum and the Ars Electronica Center. The Lentos opened in 2003 and is considered to be one of the most important museums of modern and contemporary art in Austria. The spectacular Ars Electronica Center, meanwhile, is the ‘museum of the future’ -- it has six floors, filled with creative work from hi-tech laboratories all over the world, and much of it is hands-on. It puts on some impressive light shows at night from time to time.

A note for foodies: head for one of the typical Austrian cafés while in Linz to indulge in a slice or two of the world famous Linzer Torte. Recommended are Konditorei Jindrak, a small café and bakery on Herrenstrassse, where they make 80,000 cakes a year; Bäckerei Hofmann on Landstrasse, which, with thirteen generations of bakers, claims to be the ‘oldest bakery' in Linz; and K und K Hofbäckerei on Pfarrgasse – you can’t miss its heavy black facade, covered in carvings and gold lettering: bakers have been working at this address since 1571.

From Linz to Vienna, take the A1, it’s a toll road, but the best route to the Austrian capital. You can’t actually see the Danube from downtown Vienna -- most of the city is set well away from it.

While Vienna itself needs very little introduction, you might want to consider discovering some of the attractions that are within easy reach of the Austrian capital.

Lake Neusiedler, which lies to the south-east of the city, can be reached by car in about an hour. It’s the largest lake in Austria and sits at the beginning of the Little Hungarian Plain -- popular with birdwatchers as it is surrounded by a wide reed belt with unique bird species.

It’s also an area that wine lovers would enjoy: there are several interesting wineries close by, some offering accommodation. Morbisch, located on the western shore of Lake Neusiedler is especially well-known because of its summer wine festival held each year in July. Other Morbisch wine events are the wine flowering festival in June and the vintage festival at the end of September.

The southern part of the Vienna woods are also worth exploring. You'll pass through the spa town of Baden, famous for its thermal springs and casino. The Roman-style spa in Baden is the largest fully air-conditioned hot springs in Europe. The main building is the work of the architect who designed the Vienna State Opera and dates from the first half of the 19th century.  Not far away is Heiligenkreuz Abbey, which has existed without interruption since its foundation in 1133 -- the oldest continuously occupied Cistercian monastery in the world.

Melk, near Vienna

If you fancy a rest from driving, take a cruise through the Wachau valley, an especially beautiful area on the Danube. Attractions include the majestic Benedictine abbey in Melk and the wine producing hillside villages of Spitz, Durnstein and Weissenkirchen.

If you wanted to prolong your exploration of the Danube, make a one day drive across the Slovak border and visit Bratislava – from where you could continue on to Hungary and explore Budapest, and maybe on to the Serbian Capital, Belgrade