The Grampians National Park, the historic gold-rush town of Ballarat, a renowned gourmet restaurant miles from anywhere, an amazing labyrinth of wine cellars and a night in a trendy spa town. They say a Victorian itinerary is like a jigsaw puzzle, where all the pieces fit together -- and it’s true, says John Taylor who travelled Australia’s Great Southern Touring Route with his wife, Sara.

The Balconies in the Grampians National Park

Day 1 Depart: Warrnambool   Arrive: Dunkeld Approx:164 kms
What do you do when you reach the end of the Great Ocean Road?  It’s one of the world’s most spectacular coastal drives and was definitely a highlight of our road trip around southern Australia. It was going to be a hard act to follow, we told ourselves – but that was before we discovered the other parts of the Great Southern Touring Route.

After an awesome journey along the Great Ocean Road we spent the night at the Sebel Deep Blue Resort in Warrnambool (not the largest rooms, but very comfortable). The hotel is tucked away on a small peninsula between Lady Bay and Stingray Bay.

Twenty ships are believed to have sunk in Warrnambool's Lady Bay, but only the wrecks of two, La Bella and Edinburgh Castle, have been discovered: like elsewhere along the Shipwreck Coast, the signage that tells their tales is well presented. The bay is also a sanctuary for southern right whales and their calves between mid-June and early October.

Here’s a tip: Warrnambool’s award-winning Foreshore Promenade stretches about six kilometres along the coastline to the whale watching platform at Logans Beach. It’s a great scenic trail: highly recommended. If you don’t want to walk it, the very helpful local Visitor Centre will point you in the direction of bike hire locations.

From Warrnambool we set off early along the coast to Port Fairy, and then headed north to the small town of Macarthur, the gateway to Mt Eccles National Park. It’s about a 40-minute drive from Port Fairy, mainly through sheep country with lush green grass and tall pines: a pleasant morning drive.

Lake Surprise in Mt Eccles National Park

Mt Eccles is an extinct volcano, with three craters and a large lava tunnel. There's a lake in the biggest crater called Lake Surprise -- well named, as early explorers would not have expected to be confronted with a lake when they came over the top of the hill.

If you’re in search of a great nature adventure, Mount Eccles National Park fits the bill. There are hiking trails) around the local volcanic plains: you can walk the entire rim of the old crater that now forms Lake Surprise, and it’s not too challenging. Your reward is the park’s outstanding array of indigenous Australian animals: including koalas, eastern grey kangaroos, gliders (a type of possum), antechinuses (an Australian hedgehog) and the threatened spotted-tailed quoll. There are also close to 70 bird species in the area.

Mt Eccles National Park has overnight camping facilities with toilets and showers, but remember that campsites pack out in peak periods (especially around public holidays), so bookings are essential at those times.

Mt Eccles is part of Kanawinka Geopark. With six sites that are of international significance, the area is Australia’s most extensive volcanic region. The Kanawinka Geopark also includes the Byaduk Caves near Hamilton, Mt Napier, Mt Elephant, Tower Hill, Wannon and Nigretta Falls.

Nigretta Falls

We continued on to Hamilton, a town with a prosperous wool-producing heritage. While other major centres in the region were built on gold in the mid-1800s, Hamilton sheared its way to wealth. Once known as the 'wool capital of the world', the riches that came from local sheep farming are reflected in Hamilton’s many grand old buildings, formidable homesteads and beautifully landscaped gardens.

If you happen to be in town on a Wednesday (and Thursday during the summer months) head for the Hamilton Regional Livestock Exchange and see thousands of sheep as they come up for sale. You can wander the yards and take in the frantic pace of the auction, but be careful not to wave to anyone while there, you may quickly become the owner of a flock of sheep.

Wool Heritage Week is celebrated in Hamilton during the last week of July or the first week of August. There is a farm show called the Hamilton Sheep-vention on at the same time, drawing crowds of several thousand to displays of sheep and wool products and the latest farming inventions.

If art is your thing, you will want to stop off at the Hamilton Art Gallery, which has a wonderful collection of 8,000 artworks, as well works in silver, porcelain and glass.

We had another reason for visiting Hamilton – to explore Australia's aviation history at the Ansett Transport Museum, which is full of airline memorabilia. Ansett was a major Australian airline for 66 years, loved by one and all, but not loved enough it seems, as it went bust at the start of the century.

When travelling to the Grampians National Park, most people head straight for Halls Gap, which is the hub of the region. But being gastrogeeks heavily into gourmet food, we spent a night at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, at the southern tip of the Grampians. Travelling north-east on the Glenelg Highway, it takes about half-an-hour to reach Dunkeld from Hamilton.

Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld

We had heard a lot about the Royal Mail Hotel's innovative cuisine, and were more than just a little curious. It has won the Gourmet Traveller's Regional Restaurant of the Year award four years in a row, and has a three-star rating from the Melbourne Age Good Food Guide – which is not bad going for a country hotel (the Australians call it a ‘pub’) that is often described as being in the middle of nowhere (by city dwellers, of course).

We began with Pacific oysters, which came with chrysanthemum (yes) and cucumber; went on to seared duck and scampi, buckwheat, miso and sea lettuce; and were surprised with beetroot and mandarin, cocoa and walnut as dessert. Different, very different – and, for us, a true gastronomic treat: my diary note on the meal reads ‘Heston Blumenthal meets Tetsuya Wakuda’. We drank Victorian wines, chosen by the restaurant’s sommelier from an impeccable wine list that has to be seen to be believed.

The restaurant has been raved about by American celebrity chef and food writer, Anthony Bourdain, on his No Reservations television show – though you do need reservations at the Royal Mail Hotel. Some say it’s a restaurant with rooms, and that may be so: make sure you book a table and room well in advance.

You have a choice of accommodation: the Royal Mail Hotel itself, or nearby Mt Sturgeon, a working sheep station and the starting point for many guided walks through the breathtaking beauty of the Grampians National Park.

Dunkeld is also popular with artists, and before you continue your drive you might want to check out some of the local galleries --such as the Off the Rails Gallery, located in the old railway station, and the Sandra Kranz Gallery.

Accommodation options: The Royal Mail Hotel, Mt Sturgeon Homestead

Day 2. Depart: Dunkeld Arrive: Halls Gap Approx: 83 kms
The next morning we drove north to Halls Gap, which is the ideal base for exploring the region. It’s only an hour’s drive from Dunkeld: we could have driven it the night before, but, as I said, we are into good food, and a night at the Royal Mail Hotel was the right call after our wine and dine adventure.

There is a network of roads from Halls Gap that lead to several excellent scenic drives, and there's also a wealth of walking trails around the town and in the nearby area. You’ll spot Australian wildlife wherever you go -- kangaroos, wallabies, emus, possums and an abundance of birdlife. And a third of Victoria's wildflowers are found in the Grampians: spring is when they are at their peak, adding a riot of colour to the roadsides.

We checked in to D'Altons Resort, which is made up of self-contained cottages located in the heart of Halls Gap. You could spend a couple of days or more in the Grampians exploring its unique rock formations, scenic lookouts and waterfalls.  And you might be tempted to do a little rock climbing or abseiling if you are feeling adventurous. Lakes Bellfield, Lonsdale and Fyans, which are just a short drive away, are very popular for canoeing. Grampians Personalised Tours & Adventures, an eco-tourism certified operator, offers a range of adventure activities from Halls Gap.  Or just park the car or 4X4 and head off on a mountain bike.

Brambuck Cultural Centre

We had been told that the best place to start discovering the Grampians region is award-winning Brambuk - the National Park and Cultural Centre, two-and-a-half kilometres south of Halls Gap. And that’s where we headed. Brambuk is owned and managed by Jardwadjali and Djab Wurrung people from five local Aboriginal communities that have historic links to the Grampians (known to them as Gariwerd). There is an audio-visual display, and the Aboriginal people running the centre have a wealth of information relating to the park and its features, as well as lots of good advice on local activities.

Grampians National Park is home to one of the richest Aboriginal rock art sites in south-eastern Australia and has been listed with Australia’s National Heritage for its natural beauty and ties with Aboriginal culture.

Brambuk operates two separate tours, each showcasing Aboriginal heritage. There is also a didgeridoo workshop and the chance to taste traditional Aboriginal food (kangaroo, emu, crocodile prepared with local herbs and spices) at the centre’s Bushfoods Café – while at the same time checking your messages on the café’s broadband Internet, or updating your Facebook status (why not).

Here’s a tip: if you are travelling on a tighter budget, Brambuk Backpackers has a range of well-maintained accommodation with a choice of group dormitories or double/twin share rooms.

During a tour with a Brambuk guide we walked to one of the Aboriginal rock art shelters where the meaning of human, animal and bird motifs painted many thousands of years ago was explained. We also discovered ancient oven mounds and scatterings of stone left over from tool making: and learned about Bunjil and the the two brothers Bram, who local Aboriginal people believe were responsible for the creation of the many unique landscapes to be found in the region -- stories from Aborginal Dreamtime that have been handed down from one generation to the next.

Armed with those stories, our walk to the iconic rock formation known as The Balconies had much more meaning. The walk from Reed Lookout car park and back took us almost a couple of hours – most people can do it in half the time. The track to the Balconies lookout climbs from the car park, through rock outcrops and a stringy bark forest: a ‘gentle’ walk (for most).

It had been a very active day, and we slept well that night – knowing that the next part of our road trip would take us to a spa resort known for its cuisine, by way of a winery famous for its sparkling wines.

Accommodation options: D’Altons Resort, DULC, Boroka Downs

Day 3. Depart: Halls Gap  Arrive: Daylesford  Approx: 186  kms
Our day kicked off with a drive to Stawell, a twenty-five minute trip north-east of Halls Gap on C126, or the Grampians Road, on our way to the wine cellars at Great Western. The gold era of the 1800s never ended in Stawell, where the Stawell Gold Mine is still operating as one of Victoria’s largest gold mines.

Stawell also has something of an international athletics reputation, being the home of the Stawell Gift, which has been held in all but four years since 1878, and has developed into Australia's, and notably one of the world's, most famous and prestigious foot races.

The annual Stawell Gift

Like many sporting events it has been branded, and is currently known as the Australia Post Stawell Gift (which has led some Australians to joke that it’s a relief that the runners are faster than postal delivery). It’s a professional athletics meeting that incorporates more than 60 events, with athletes running off handicaps. Staged at Easter, the Stawell Gift has a true Australia carnival atmosphere about it, with plenty of action off the track for all the family, including a betting ring, fashion parade and children's entertainment.

Great Western’s claim to fame is the three-kilometre labyrinth of tunnels (or drives) that run under Seppelt’s Great Western winery. Grapevines were first planted at Great Western in 1863. Today, the area has become the focal point of one of Australia's internationally renowned wine-growing regions.

A heritage themed tour explores the fascinating history of the Seppelt Winery including entrance to the underground cellars. The tour takes an hour, during which time you get a good insight into the way sparkling wines are produced. The tour ends at the cellar door with a wine tasting (and the opportunity to buy wine, of course). The tour departs twice daily, Monday to Saturday at 11.00 and 14.00. You might want to call ahead and let them know you’d like to join the tour. +61 3 53612239

From Great Western the road continues south to Ararat, a small town with a big history: the only Australian town established by the Chinese. It was back in early 1857 that 700 Chinese, travelling overland from what was then the port of Robe in South Australia, to Victoria’s goldfields, struck gold by chance while replenishing their water supplies from a spring in the foothills of the Great Dividing Range.

Their find marked the beginning of the Ararat Goldfield, which grew to a population of more than 30,000 in only a few weeks. In the first three weeks of mining, the strike came up with a little less than a hundred kilos of gold, which jumped to more than three tons in as many months. By the time the official gold escort ended in 1863, more than fifteen tons of gold had been transported to Melbourne.

You can find out more about this lucky strike at the Gum San Chinese Heritage Centre. It brings to life the story of the immigrant miners on the Victorian goldfields in the mid-1800s. Try your hand at gold panning, practice a little calligraphy, learn about the Chinese language and play traditional Chinese games.

Mount Langi Ghiran winery

If you are a wine lover, Mount Langi Ghiran winery at Buangor near Ararat is worth a visit: it produces one of Australia’s finest cool climate wines, the Langi Shiraz. Mount Langi Ghiran (which is Aboriginal for ‘home of the yellow-tailed black cockatoo’) is one of the most isolated wineries in Australia, The cellar door, nestled at the foot of a rugged mountain range has a magnificent view over the vineyards and is open Monday to Friday from 09.00 to 17.00 (from 10.00 at weekends).

We took the Pyrenees Highway (sounds much nicer than B180) east as far as Newstead, then turned right onto the road that leads to Daylesford – it’s called the Newstead-Daylesford Road, so you can’t go wrong.

The Pyrenees Highway led us through Avoca, a little less than an hour’s drive from Ararat. With its backdrop of the Pyrenees Ranges and tall red gums along its riverbanks, Avoca was initially settled for sheep and cattle grazing, but the bucolic way of life was not to last: it quickly became the region’s commercial centre when gold was discovered in the mid-1800s.

Gold prospectors still turn up in Avoca from time to time, but most visitors are now attracted to the Pyrenees region to for its wineries (more than 30 at the last count): or to enjoy a little trekking or 4X4 adventure in the region’s state forests. Early November sees a special weekend in Avoca – the Pyrenees Escapade: a showcase of food and wine across the region.

After Avoca we came to Maryborough, which Mark Twain, who passed this way in the late 1800s, described as a ‘railway station with a town attached’. Maryborough has become a place of pilgrimage for train lovers over the years because of its elegant railway station: it has the longest platform in Australia, which in recent times has been used, along with other parts of the station, as an antiques emporium. If antiques are your thing, seeking out a bargain in Maryborough will be a highlight of this part of the drive.

Hepburn Springs and Daylesford sell themselves as Australia’s Spa Capital – and no hard sell is needed. They sit in the middle of Australia's largest concentration of health-giving mineral springs. You can taste the different mineral waters at old-fashioned pumps and pipes in Hepburn Springs Mineral Springs Reserve. Hepburn Springs and Daylesford could also be called Australia’s Indulgence Capital: apart from soothing mineral springs and day spas, there is also great food to be had, and an excellent golf course that is seldom crowded, except by local kangaroos.

Pumping mineral water at Hepburn Springs

If you fancy a game of golf in Hepburn Springs, remember that bookings are essential. Give a call to the clubhouse. + 61 3 53482185

Hepburn Springs is the result of a lot of hard work by Swiss Italian migrants who established the small town during the 1850s gold rush. You have to wonder what they would think of the town today. Think about it while enjoying a latte or cappuccino at the Old Macaroni Factory -- that’s what it was originally: and it has a wonderful history that reveals a lot about how Australia gave a fresh start to thousands of European immigrants.

Guided tours of the Macaroni Factory tell the fascinating story of the Lucini family through the unique frescoes that adorn the ceilings and walls. Much restoration has been done to reveal these colourful frescoes, which reflect the way of life in the Lucinis’ old Italian homeland on Lake Maggiore. The tours are run on Saturdays and Sundays at 10.30 and last an hour.

We stayed at the award-winning Lake House in Daylesford, which was one of the best boutique resort hotels we had come across while travelling in Australia. Lake House sits on the shores of Lake Daylesford. Walking tracks lead from the property, around the lake and into the Wombat State Forest. There is an abundance of mineral springs around the hotel -- the nearest one bubbles out on Lake House's doorstep. The hotel’s spa has a range of treatments – so indulge: especially after a dinner at the hotel’s award-winning restaurant.

We began with quail tempura,  served with wasabi mayonnaise, baked egg custard and shiitake mushrooms; and continued with a roast loin of succulent lamb, which came with sweet peppers, eggplant and tomatoes. We skipped the dessert (for once) and enjoyed a ‘sticky’ (the Australian term for a dessert wine) with coffee.

We learned over dinner that Alla Wolf-Tasker, the owner of Lake House, a dynamic lady who helped put Daylesford firmly on the foodie map, was about to open her latest venture, a garden cafe and store in the Wombat Hill Botanical Gardens, one of Daylesford’s big attractions. (Ed note: it is now open)

Here’s a tip for Daylesford: try and visit during the week, at weekends the Melbourne dolce vita crowd tend to take over the town. Some of the galleries are not open during the week, but it’s much easier to use the spa baths (and maybe get a discount on treatments – see the local paper).

Accommodation options: Lake House, Royal Daylesford Hotel, Peppers Mineral Springs Retreat (Hepburn Springs)

Day 4. Depart: Daylesford Arrive: Ballarat: 45 kms
The old gold rush town of Ballarat was next on our list, the last overnight stop before returning to Melbourne.

Ballarat has often been called the birthplace of Australian democracy, and that’s because of the Eureka Stockade, where a group of miners began a short-lived rebellion at the end of 1854 against what they thought were unreasonable license fees – a heavy taxation on the gold they found. More than thirty people were killed in the uprising.

The story is told in a spectacular sound-and-light show at Sovereign Hill called Blood on the Southern Cross. There are no actors – just voices, awesome sound-and-light effects and a stunning open-air set. Visitors view much of the action from the re-created Free Trade Hotel on the Eureka Diggings. The show is available in four foreign languages: German, French, Japanese and Mandarin; and runs for 90 minutes, seven nights a week. Starting times vary, so check them out in advance.

We took a special package deal that included a two-day pass to Sovereign Hill, the sound-and-light-show, meals and on-site accommodation at the Comfort Inn. Rates change from time to time, so it’s worth checking what’s available at what price.

Blood on the Southern Cross

Sovereign Hill itself is a good replica of a gold mining town in the mid-1800s, with staff dressed in costumes of the period. One visitor’s theme park is another’s historic re-enactment – for us it was a little of each, and it made for a thoroughly enjoyable day.

The Ballarat Wildlife Park  is another of the city’s major attractions. Koalas lounge about in the trees, kangaroos hop up to visitors to be fed and the emus show off their speed. It’s a ‘must’ if you are travelling with children.The park also houses a Reptile Park, home to more than 400 different species of reptiles, including frogs, snakes, lizards, crocodiles, alligators and turtles. On Sundays, you can watch a giant 4.2-meter saltwater crocodile being fed from very close quarters.

Accommodation options: Comfort Inn Sovereign Hill, Craig’s Royal Hotel, Mercure Ballarat;

Day 5. Depart: Ballarat Arrive: Melbourne Approx: 116 kms
The journey back to Melbourne takes about 90 minutes, depending on traffic. If you wanted to extend your journey consider driving from Ballarat to Geelong via Bacchus Marsh (which sits on Ballarat-Melbourne road) and then pick up B110 to Queenscliffe and the short ferry trip to Sorrento at the tip of the Mornington Peninsula – where the attractions include boutique wineries and several well-stocked antique shops. It’s an easy drive up to Melbourne from Sorrento.

John Taylor is a much-travelled executive who has spent considerable time travelling in Australia and Europe. He prefers to drive whenever possible and says flying is ‘like crossing a country with a bag over your head, you see nothing’. Both he and his wife, Sara are currently planning a trip to China to discover parts of the ancient Silk Road.